Why Are All The Stores Closed?

Yeah, they definitely won't be happy about that picture. I'm not doing well with taking flattering photos lately. Well, anyways, this is Brad and Melissa enjoying their first ever gnocco fritto! And they totally doubted me when I said it was really yummy. They thought it would be greasy and disgusting.

Which begs the question, do I usually enjoy food that is greasy and disgusting???

Considering that half of my diet consists of apples and pearled barley, I think not.

Most of Melissa and Brad's visit to Modena involved eating. And not necessarily because that's the only thing to do here. More because it was snowing and we were freezing and soaking wet and just wanted somewhere warm to sit.

For lunch, we went to Pizza Al Taglio.

They got pizza. I got a salami and parmigiano panino. I've had so much pizza that I usually go for a sandwich.

Those are faces of joy.

Around 3 o'clock, Melissa and Brad discovered what it's like to live in Modena. We were cold and full and wanted to do some shopping.

I didn't realize that it had not reached 3:30 yet. As we walked around and saw all the shops that were closed up, I mentioned that a lot of stores are closed Thursday afternoons.

Melissa said, "Meri, it looks like everything is closed."

Me: "Oh, wait, what time is it?"

Brad: "3"

Me: "Oh. Okay, the stores will be open in a half hour."

Melissa and Brad: * stare at me looking dumbfounded *

Me: "Yeah. They have a 3 hour lunch break usually. Closed from 12:30 to 3:30."

I'm pretty used to the schedule now, but these guys could not believe it.

We eventually got to go to aperitivo, Brad's new favorite thing on the planet. Basically, you pay for a beverage and then get access to the buffet of finger foods for free.

Good deal.

Melissa had Lambrusco wine and Brad had a vodka martini I believe.

I had Planter's Punch. Melissa called it the "lollipop drink." Yeah, it was pretty sugary.

Free food! Sort of.

Then we went to Da Danilo for dinner--the same place I went with Alex. They were impressed.

I got the gnocchi.

Melissa, the house made tortelloni.

And Brad the radicchio risotto.

For dessert, this thing. Sort of like a semi freddo with a lot of crumbled candy in it, and doused in hot chocolate. One of Brad's favorite desserts of all time!

And of course, gelato with balsamic vinegar.

I hope Melissa and Brad have fun during their final days in Italy!

-Meri

All We Do Is Eat

Alex and I have accomplished quite a bit in Modena in these last few days. Some of it involves getting souvenirs for family and friends. Most of it involves eating.

I of course had to get more hot chocolate at my favorite bar. This stuff is beyond words. And this time they gave me a little side of whipped cream!

When I was paying, the man behind the counter kept calling me "la ragazza americana." The American girl. I guess I kind of stick out like a sore thumb here a little bit...

Last night, we dined at Da Danilo, a little restaurant in the center of town. With our antipasto, they served gnocco fritto. It's a local treat that they serve in practically every bar. It's basically fried pasta dough (and has nothing to do with gnocchi). I love it!

Our server recommended that we stuff the gnocco with some prosciutto crudo. Excellent idea.

Our antipasto with prosciutto crudo, salami, some kind of cheese, and fig spread.

First course: vegetable soup. Mmmmmm nice and hearty.

Second course: omelette with prosciutto (not crudo). I need to learn that if the word crudo is not attached, it means that I'm probably getting ham--something I don't like nearly as much. Plus, the eggs were kind of overcooked...

Dessert: gelato with balsamic vinegar drizzled on top. If there's one thing Modena does well, it's balsamic. This dessert was awesome. We went to a balsamic store in town and the guy had 100-year balsamic for sale (the older it is, the sweeter it is). 220 euros for a bottle the size of golfball.

Today, January 31st, was the Festival of San Geminiano, Modena's saint.

My pictures don't do it justice, but there are tons of vendors spreading out from the center of town. Hundreds and hundreds of them, selling everything from socks to baby toys to amaretti cookies.

Alex bought truffle salami and truffle cheese. Our family loves everything truffle.

We also hit up some candy stations. I looooooooove black licorice; they sell giant strands of the stuff. And they had candy apples!

We also got some goodies for Alex to bring home. Oh, and those things that look like fruit in the bottom left hand corner of this picture are actually giant gummy candies.

For lunch, we ordered a local delicacy--piadino. It's like an italian tortilla. They use it here in replacement of ciabbata for a panino. Our piadino had prosciutto crudo, cheese, and eggplant. Delicious!

And I got a hat at the market. I forgot to bring a hat to Modena so my head has been quite chilly some days. The top is big enough for my to fit my giant head of hair into which is also useful.

Tonight, we had a fixed menu dinner next door to my residence. It was tagliatelle with cinghiali. Cinghiale is--according to my italian dictionary--wild boar.

Next course, more wild boar with polenta.

Oh yeah, by the way: I'm taking a 7-month break from being a vegetarian if you haven't noticed. I'm going to take full advantage of the wonderful food around me and return to my fruit and veggie lifestyle when I get back home.

I have to say, the prosciutto crudo here is INCREDIBLE. Oh, and the guy at the salami stand in the Mercato Albinelli knows me now. I went three days in a row to buy salame napoli for Alex.

Salami guy: "Hai finito tutto?" (You finished everything?)
Me: *face turns red* "Si. Mio fratello amo il salame." (Yes. My brother loves salami)
Then I proceed to buy an absurd amount of salami and prosciutto.
Hopefully I'll be friends with the produce people soon too.

-Meri